With the approach of winter comes the pumpkins and trick ‘n’ treat of Halloween. Although for most people Halloween is simply a fun excuse to dress up as a spook, its roots lie way back in a time when moonless nights were filled with the fear of ghouls, magic and covens of witches. Today though – deep into the 21st century – you might think that science and technology have stolen all the magic the world once contained. Witches and sorcerers have been relegated to the pages of medieval chronicles. Ghosts are nothing but the figment of an overly enthusiastic imagination and spells, curses and magic are mere hocus-pocus. But, what if that wasn’t the case? What if there were still a few special places left on this planet where magic was real?
Here at Native Eye we have long been spellbound by the parts of the world where some things cannot be easily explained away with scientific theories and formulas. So, as we prepare our pumpkins for Halloween, we thought we would introduce you to those parts of the world where magic is still real and that thing that goes bump in the night might actually be a ghost.
Benin
The tiny West African nation of Benin is one such place. The original home of that much misunderstood and maligned religion, Voodoo, Benin is a place where the supernatural is still natural. This means that at some point during your journey around Benin it’s likely that you will come face to face with something so unlikely – something that goes against everything that science has taught us – that you will have no choice but to reassess all that you thought was real.
Voodoo Spirits
The trigger that lights this magical moment of revelation will be different for each of us. Maybe it will come as you stand in a room where sacred pythons slither from every roof beam? Perhaps it will be the fearful moment when a god with horns sprouting from his back approaches you with a message from the dead? Possibly it will be as you peruse the gory ingredients of a fetish market? Or could it be the instant that you meet a king who can transform himself into a bird and fly away above the clouds?
The Zangbeto
At Native Eye we’ve spent years exploring Benin, but we still remember the moment when the cauldron of the unexplainable revealed itself to us for the first time. It was in a dusty village square at the end of a hot day. The echo of drumbeats rolled through the air and a large crowd had gathered to watch what, at first sight, appeared to be several large, rainbow-coloured haystacks gyrating and spinning around. But, these were no haystacks. They were Zangbeto’s, a type of Voodoo spirit. When we first laid eyes on them, we assumed they were just people dressed up. But, as the afternoon rolled on and the sun started to fade into evening, we began to wonder how a single man could have the strength and stamina to spin with such vigour for so long?
But, then, something unexplainable happened. One particularly enthusiastic Zangbeto appeared to reach a crescendo of speed before, quite suddenly, it fell and tumbled down onto the ground. Expecting to see a man stepping out of it we were shocked to discover that the Zangbeto was utterly hollow. There was nothing whatsoever within it and nowhere a person could hide. Each Zangbeto had a posse of human guardians and three of them quickly stood the fallen Zangbeto back up. Again, it started to spin wildly before falling over again. This time though the Zangbeto wasn’t hollow. Instead, a metre high wooden statue emerged from within it and that too started to gyrate.
This happened another couple of times, with something more surreal being revealed each time, including for the finale, a large, and very much alive, pig. Searching for a logical explanation to what we had just witnessed we turned to a man in the crowd who told us simply, “This is Voodoo”.
Native Eye Benin Tours
Since that first moment, we’ve had many other encounters with the magic of Benin and that sense of wonder is something we aim to encapsulate on our Benin tours where we take you to meet witches and fetishes, voodoo spirits and shape-shifting kings.
We have four different tours that take in Benin and neighbouring countries.
Ouidah Voodoo Festival
January brings one of West Africa’s most remarkable cultural events, the Ouidah Voodoo festival in Benin. Bringing Voodoo practitioners from across the country (and beyond) to the gorgeous pastel coloured town of Ouidah, this is the perfect way to experience the region’s spellbinding traditions up close.
The main festival unfolds on Ouidah’s beach, but smaller, more intimate celebrations take place in nearby villages. We take time to explore both, experiencing the best of both worlds.
Our Ouidah Voodoo Festival tour travels through three countries, each with different traditions and practices. From the colourful funeral celebrations of the Ashanti people in Ghana, to the elaborate fortress houses of the Tamberma people in Togo and Benin, we uncover the very best of this part of West Africa.
Gold and Magic
Our year round Gold and Magic tour is similar to our Ouidah Voodoo Festival tour and is the one for those who can’t make it to Benin for the January festival. Although missing the fesitval might seem like a mistake, we still get to witness lots of Voodoo magic and without the crowds of onlookers who can be present at the festival.
Bissau to Cotonou – Heart of West Africa and Marrakesh to Cotonou – West Africa Odyssey
For the true adventuer, our month long Bissau to Cotonou – Heart of West Africa and two month long Marrakesh to Cotonou – West Africa Odyssey take in multiple countries and experiences and are among our most ambitious and exciting tours. Both finish among the Voodoo fetish markets of southern Benin.
A World of the Unexpected
For all its wonders, Benin isn’t the only place where the inexplicable stares you in the face. If you fancy yourself as a budding Harry Potter, then grab your broomstick and join Native Eye in one of these other fairytale destinations. In future blog posts we will be exploring these destinations in greater depth.
Myanmar
The secretive Southeast Asian nation of Myanmar is devoutly Buddhist, but behind this lies an undercurrent of something older and wilder. Belief in Nats (fairy-like spirits) is strong and during our Myanmar tour you will learn about Nat worship, as well as discover the secrets of the magnificent Shwedagon Pagoda with its wish fulfilling shrines and a pagoda devoted to wizards. You will also get the chance to have your future revealed when you meet a fortune teller, an important person in Burmese culture.
Caucasus
In the mountainous crossroads of Asia and Europe, old ways of life hold on. In the Caucasus countries of Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan we will discover how the threads of pre-Christian beliefs – such as sun prayers and the veneration of fire – still tie village communities together.
Bhutan
Nothing about Bhutan is ordinary. On a Native Eye tour to Bhutan, you will visit a temple built by a group of Dakini (female spirits with a volatile temperament), climb to a cliff-face monastery constructed by a Saint who flew there on the back of a tiger, visit the battle sites of demons and saints and maybe even search for an underwater temple filled with treasure.
Papua New Guinea and Papua (Indonesia)
The massive island of New Guinea is divided between the independent nation of Papua New Guinea and the Indonesian region of Papua and we operate tours to both. No matter which you choose you will discover that deep in the rugged interior, the spirit world remains strong. Our tours to Papua New Guinea will introduce you to spirit houses and sorcery, the mud men of Asaro and the crocodile venerating tribes of the mighty Sepik River. While in Indonesian Papua you will meet centuries old mummified warriors and a largely traditional people who just a few generations ago were still practising cannibalism.
Gabon
In the jungle heart of Africa, Gabon is a cauldron of magic. Our groundbreaking journeys through this little-known land will see you being witness to a Bwiti ceremony where powerful forest spirits are summoned during fire-lit ceremonies.
What our travellers say
Want to get a real sense of what it’s like travelling to Benin with Native Eye? This is what some of our previous clients had to say about visiting Benin with Native Eye.
“This trip, and the region, is not for everyone, but for me it opened up a differnet area fter lots of tours in east and southern Africa. Your knowledge, love and enthusiasum for the region shone through and I shall definitely be travelling with you again”.
“Incredible place, incredible people and great team looking after things on the ground over there”
How to visit
If visiting Benin with us appeals, get in touch, and we’d be delighted to tell you more. Ring us on 01473 793683 or use our contact form.
Other blogs you may be interested in
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Best Small Group Tours
Central Asia Tours – Guide to the Five Stans
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