If, like many of our adventurous travellers, you’ve always wanted to visit Syria, now is a great time – as travel writer Rhonda Carrier discovered in conversation with Helen Youngman. Helen is an independent travel agent specialising in sustainable, ethical and adventure travel for more than a decade. With a deep expertise in the Middle East, she has a special interest in travel itineraries that celebrate and support Muslim women and their livelihoods.
Helen recently led our Highlights of Syria tour. She found a vibrant and proud people rebuilding their world after war, and warmly welcoming intrepid travellers beginning to journey there once again.
Hi Helen, before this trip, you’d wanted to visit Syria for a very long time.
What made now such a great time to go?
“Yes, I’ve been fascinated with the idea of travelling to Syria from way back when I was learning Arabic at SOAS. My teacher was from Damascus and told us many stories about this beautiful city. Pre-Arab Spring, there were lots of tours to Syria, and the country was renowned not only for its history but also for its wonderful people and their joyous hospitality.
I used to work for a travel company that ran many tours to Syria, and everyone we sent there absolutely loved it. Then obviously there was a long hiatus when it sadly just wasn’t possible.”
What reassured you about Native Eye’s approach to this epic destination as it opens up again?
“One big factor was that our local guide Hussain was one of the most experienced in all of Syria and knew exactly where to take us to get us under the skin of this amazing country without risk. Some people do wonder: ‘Is Syria safe to visit?’. It is! We saw that both on the ground and in reports.
That also means you get to enjoy authentic, local experiences. We met some of Hussain’s friends along the way and heard their stories. For instance, a beekeeper who used to be an engineer and has decided to take his family business over in the souq. We had the chance to try delicious types of honey such as black cumin, wild mint, and Yemeni.”
Can you tell us a bit more about the trip? How it was structured…
“As you can’t fly directly to Syria at the moment, we started in Lebanon’s Beirut, which is a bonus as it’s a brilliant city in its own right – well worth a day or two (or more!) and perfect for acclimatising to the Middle East.
The tour started with a visit to the Roman site of Baalbek and some wine tasting at a renowned chateau.
From there we were driven across the border. Some of us were a bit apprehensive about this, or at least didn’t know what to expect, but it was all smooth, hassle-free and speedy.
The moment we arrived at our spectacular first stop, the capital Damascus, we discovered a hive of activity with an energetic and welcoming atmosphere.”
… And what were the highlights?
“We were all blown away by how excited locals are to be welcoming back tourists for the first time in a decade. We felt immediately at ease but also honoured to be there. In Bosra in the south, families even gave us some of their falafel wraps and invited us to sit on their blankets. Young students were dancing around the amphitheatre and it was magical! Bear in mind that some of these people had never seen a tourist before. It was overwhelming and very moving.
The hospitality that Syria is famous for spans more than offering tea and coffee, though – it’s a sacred part of the culture here.
Our tour included a visit to a family home in Damascus for a meal that the lady of the house had been up cooking since 7am. But honestly, the kindness of these people was on display everywhere. We drank mint tea from a guy in a Bedouin tent in the desert next to Palmyra, we chatted with a grandfather and his granddaughter, we met young students bubbling with optimism… All chance encounters that immersed us in daily life in Syria.
Tell me more about the sights and sites?
Beyond personal interactions like these, there were too many fantastic sights to mention. But among my favourites was the now-derelict Hotel Baron in Aleppo, where Agatha Christie is said to have written at least half of Murder on the Orient Express (you can still see the room where she stayed), and where Lawrence of Arabia also stayed.
The Aleppo National Museum is slowly opening up again, while the city’s Citadel – one of the world’s oldest and biggest castles – had hardly any other visitors when we were there. Parts of its ancient souk are being lovingly restored and are great to stroll around, looking at the herbs, spices, and crafts stalls.
Other real standouts for me were a visit to a Bedouin market in Hama and seeing the iconic Hama waterwheels. And then hearing Damascus’ unique call to prayer, which is sung as a 12-man band.
I was also entranced by the Christian shrine of St Takla in Maaloula.
For some of the others on the tour, the Crusader castle of Crac des Chevaliers topped the list of best places to visit in Syria. My fellow travellers came from every corner of the world, from the USA and Canada to South Korea. They were all hugely well-travelled but had long yearned to visit Syria. For everyone on the trip, Syria was close to their hearts for different reasons.”
Was Syria what you expected? Did it live up to your expectations?
“Of course I expected to see some harsh and upsetting evidence of the devastating impact of the war here, so I was ready for the damaged buildings in Palmyra and Homs, among other locations. But the dominant feeling throughout our tour was hope and optimism. In fact, we kept meeting children called Amal which means ‘hope’ in Arabic.
There was an energy and vibrancy to it all that warmed our hearts. In Aleppo, for instance, there are destroyed buildings but also joyful throngs of people outside kebab houses and in coffeehouses and ice-cream parlours. In Damascus, there are karaoke and tiki bars and inviting old pubs full of young Damascene locals.
You get to experience all of these if you want – Syria is not all about history and ruins. We even ended up being part of a wedding! And there’s incredible modern street art too…
Our trip included a balance of historic sights, immersion into Syrian life, museums, amazing food and drink and time to explore. The trip was designed to incorporate experiences, lunches and dinners that channelled money back to people who are so eager to get their businesses back on track after years of dormancy.
A stay at Beit Zafran Hotel was an absolute treat too – an absolutely stunning five-star boutique hotel in a converted Ottoman mansion.
And pretty soon you realise that by being here, you’re helping the grass-roots rebuilding of revitalised artisan workshops (everything from mosaics to chessboards) and other local businesses – and hence the rebuilding of Syria as a whole.
A brilliant example of travelling with a purpose
So, this is really meaningful travel. Syria is changing – and tourism can be a huge part of that.
For instance, we went to a hotel with a restaurant with an incredible view of Crac des Chevaliers. The owner had decided to keep it open as a labour of love despite it being damaged in the war and despite the lack of tourists. We turned up there and were welcomed with cold beers and delicious homemade food. Channelling our tourist spend into the restaurant so the hotel can be fully reopened in the future was a powerful feeling.
We also visited an Aleppo soap workshop – a historic part of Syrian culture and also an industry that locals are reviving for export.”
Visit Syria – next steps
Tempted to finally see Syria as it reopens? Then please get in touch by phone – 01473 328546 – or send an enquiry via our contact page. We’d be delighted to discuss all aspects of our Highlights of Syria tour with you. You can also find more in-depth information on our Syria holidays pages and Syria photo gallery.
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