Algerian Odyssey

Algiers

Algiers enjoys an enviable location, located on a series of hills overlooking the Mediterranean, and is one of the most attractive cities of North Africa. Founded by the Phoenicians and conquered by Rome, it has seen its fair share of invaders over the years, all of which have left it imbued with a rich and varied cultural heritage.

During the 18th and early 19th century it was a notorious haven for the pirates of Barbary, who preyed on merchant ships along the coast, prompting intervention from the French and the annexation of Algeria in an early example of European colonial involvement in Africa. Under their rule some impressive buildings were constructed, giving the city a European feel in places. The whitewashed buildings, blue shutters and wide avenues are more reminiscent of Marseilles than Marrakech.

Most interesting of all is the Casbah, a maze of narrow winding streets, Ottoman mosques and palaces that is the heart of old Algiers. This was an area of fierce resistance against the French during the resistance of the 1960s. For many years this was considered out of bounds to visitors, but it is now accessible with a guide and one of the most enigmatic parts of the city.

Constantine

Constantine, the ‘city of bridges’, is a dramatic city of precipitous cliffs and deep gorges, the lofty setting for one of Algeria’s most labyrinthine casbahs. Constantine boasts an excellent museum (noted in particular for its Roman mosaics) as well as the delightful Palace of Ahmed Bey and a handful of hidden mosques.

This is one of the oldest cities in Algeria, dating back to the time of the Numidians in the 2nd century BC. It takes its name from the Roman Emperor Constantine, who rebuilt the city in the 4th century, and has been inhabited by Byzantines, Arabs, Ottomans and the French. The Ottoman district of the town is perhaps the most interesting, with winding streets and buildings that are 400 years or more in age. Although many are unfortunately falling into disrepair it still exudes a certain ambience and is well worth exploring.

M’Zab Valley

The towns that make up the M’Zab Valley are one of the most interesting places in all of Algeria, culturally unique and oozing with character and mystery. The Mozabite population are Berbers of the Ibadite sect of Islam with a distinct set of traditions, not least of which is the unique way in which the towns are constructed. With surrounding fortified walls, each town is built around a central mosque, the streets fanning out in concentric circles – viewed from the air the effect is quite extraordinary.

In previous years they lived a rather isolated existence, separate from the rest of Algeria and with their own rulers. While this has changed now, the spirit of independence endures. Until quite recently some of the cities locked their gates at night, with only residents permitted entry. Many people, especially women, wear traditional dress here and the towns are filled with busy souks where donkeys jostle for space with customers. Perhaps more than anywhere in the country the M’Zab Valley gives the visitor a glimpse of the Algeria of yesteryear.

Timimoun

The ‘red oasis’ town of Timimoun is one the prettiest in all of the Sahara, with picturesque dwellings made from mud, studded with sticks which poke out from them – described as the ‘Sudanese style’ of architecture. Its location is pretty special too, with lush palm groves and imposing sand dunes, and a ruined hilltop fort that overlooks the town. The population here is a mix of Arabs, Berbers and black Africans, a reminder that this was once an important stop on the Trans-Saharan slave trade.

Tlemcen

Tlemcen is without a doubt one of Algeria’s prettiest towns, with elegant minarets and other historic sites, and was the capital of the Almoravid dynasty in the 13th century. Today it still retains something of an Andalusian flavour – the Almoravids having been responsible for the Muslim conquest of Spain. The city is full of traces of its past importance, with impressive historic sites such as the Mechouar, a former royal palace of the Zianides dynasty, ancient mosques and a lively souk to explore.

Oran

Situated on the coast and founded at the start of the 10^th century, Oran once served as a port for the sultanate of Tlemcen and became a centre of trade between Spain and Algeria. As such, the city still has a distinctive Spanish, rather than French feel in its older districts. Oran is noticeably more liberal in comparison to the rest of the country, with women enjoying greater freedom and with a livelier and more energetic atmosphere than Algiers. Unlike much of Algeria, Oran doesn’t have a Berber heritage and wasn’t colonised by the Romans, but still has a wealth of colonial heritage to discover from its Ottoman fortress to the colourful French cathedral and church of Santa Cruz. The city is well known for its Rai music – a form of Algerian folk music which originated here in the 1920s.