In the Footsteps of Saladin

Erbil

Erbil lays claim to being one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities on earth, with a citadel that has been occupied for around seven thousand years. Over the years it has seen a succession of different civilisations holding sway here, from Assyrians to Medes to Greeks, to Romans, Armenians, Ottomans and British – Erbil is a living history lesson and exemplifies the complex history of this part of the world.

Also known as Hewler, Erbil is dominated by its citadel, a vast and imposing fortress that sits atop a hill above the town and is one of Kurdistan’s most recognisable monuments. Erbil Citadel was once a Sumerian city called Urbellum or Arbella and it is believed that Abraham passed through this city on one of his journeys. It once housed the Temple of the Goddess Ishtar and was the city Darius III fled to after facing defeat by Alexander the Great on the nearby plains of Gaugemela. A massive restoration project is currently being undertaken by UNESCO.

The citadel is also home to the Textile Museum, housed in a 220 year old residence features ancient Kurdish fighting tools, traditional dresses, handmade rugs from different regions and eras of Kurdish history, jewellery and photos. In addition to Kurdish antiquities there are a number of pieces from Iran and Turkey. The city occupied a strategic location on regional trading routes, connecting Baghdad and Mosul, and is today home to the Kurdish Parliament, which since the overthrow of Saddam Hussein has far more power than in previous days.

Erbil is today a fast growing city with multinational organisations taking an interest in its development, but it still very much retains its traditions – the bazaars are still far more important than any shopping centre could be and it is here that one can really feel the spirit of the country, as traders compete for customers on the lookout for goods of all manner, their wares stacked high and with small boys delivering tea between the stalls. Also worth seeing is the 36 metre high Choli Minaret, dating back to the 12th century and towering above the surrounding buildings. Erbil is a fascinating place, very much at a crossroads between ancient tradition and modern consumerism, and well worth thorough exploration.

Saladin

Saladin was a Kurdish Muslim, who became the first sultan of Egypt & Syria, and founded the Ayoubi Dynasty. He led Muslim & Arab opposition to the Franks & other European Crusaders in the Levant. At the height of his power, his sultanate included Egypt, Syria, Mesopotamia, Hijaz & Yemen. Under his leadership, his forces defeated the Crusaders at the Battle of Hattin, leading the way to the capture of Palestine & Jerusalem. Many have seen famous and better-preserved examples of Salahadin fortresses – few have visited the place that gave birth to this incredible historic figure.

Dohuk

Not far from the Turkish border, the town of Dohuk lies in a wide valley surrounded by mountains. Traditionally the region has been associated with agriculture and is locally famous for its grapes – other crops grown here include rice, tobacco, wheat and all manner of fruit and vegetables. Once known for its colourful houses, Dohuk grew in importance during the period of sanctions imposed on Iraq – its proximity to the border meant that it was a hub for smuggling goods.

Jirwana

Jirwana is reputedly the oldest aqueduct and bridge ruin in the world built in the time of Sennacharib (690 BC). The site was once part of a vast complex that was built to water the gardens of Nineveh. Huge stones transported by hand from quarries hundreds of miles away are in scripted with the story of this amazing feat. Here you will find the secret of the ‘hidden message of Sennacharib’ known by only a few living scholars in the world – join them in this amazing revelation.

Rabban Hormizd

Rabban Hormizd Monastery is an important site of the Chaldean Church. It is carved out of the mountains about 2 miles from Alqosh, Iraq, 28 miles north of Mosul. Founded around 640 AD, the monastery has been the official residence of the patriarchs of the Eliya line of the Church of the East from 1551 to the 18th century, and after the union with Rome in the early 19th century, it became a prominent monastery of the Chaldean Church. It is named after Rabban Hormizd (rabban is the Syriac for monk) who founded it in the seventh century and is buried within the sanctuary.

Saddam’s Palace

There were ten palaces built in the same region and all of which were opulent complexes where meals were prepared in each three times a day in anticipation that Saddam ‘might’ visit at any moment. One of the palaces was venue to extravagant parties hosting the world’s glitterati and a nearby stadium and pool was under construction where Saddam hoped to one day host the Olympics. Almost nothing remains of the palaces as the people of Kurdistan tore them all down when liberated from Saddam in 1991 to express their anger at the genocide he perpetrated against them.

Amadiya

The town of Amadiya (dating from the Assyrian era) is located on a high promontory above a breathtaking landscape and fed by a geothermal spring originating far below the mountain. Situated around 1400 m above sea level and surrounded by heights it was once an almost impenetrable fortress. The city Gate (Bab Zebar) is located in the eastern side of the City of Amadiya. Its width was 4 metres, built by Imaduddin Al- Zanki in 5-600 AD. One of Amadiya’s most impressive sites is the 30 metre high minaret in the centre of the town, with intricate patterns as decoration; it was built in the time of Sultan Hussein Wali and was part of an already existing ancient city.

Suleimaniyah

Suleimaniyah, or Suly as it is affectionately known to residents, was founded in the late 18th century and so compared to Erbil is a real youngster – it was founded by Ibrahim Pasha Baban and named after his father Suleiman Pasha. An important city and taking a pivotal role in the promotion of Kurdish culture now that the old Ba’athist regime has fallen, it is considered the cultural capital of northern Iraq.

It was from here that Mahmud Barzanji sparked the first rebellion against the British occupation on May 22, 1919 with the arrest of British officials in Sulaymaniyah and declared an independent Kurdistan that same year. The British occupation declared Sheikh Hama Tahmas as king in order to silence the residents of Suleimaniyah and stop their rebellion, but Sheikh Mahmud acted and ruled independently from the British, and wanted them out of the kingdom. As a result, in the same year, he was exiled for several years to the Andaman Islands in India by the British occupation, only to return and raise another unsuccessful rebellion in 1923.

Today the city is home to a couple of fascinating museums – the Amna Suraka, which provides an important insight into the horrific treatment of the Kurds under Saddam Hussein, and the Slemani Museum which houses Kurdish and Persian artefacts.

Halabja

On March 16, 1988, Saddam Hussein ordered the use of chemical weapons in attacking 24 villages in the Kurdish region beginning with Halabja. At least 5,000 people died as an immediate result of the chemical attack and it is estimated that a further 7,000 people were injured or suffered long term illness. Before the war ended the Iraqis moved in on the ground and completely destroyed the town. In March 2010, the Iraqi High Criminal Court recognized the Halabja massacre as genocide. Saddam was executed for other crimes just before he was to be tried in Kurdistan for his acts of atrocity. Today the city lives again – testimony to the Kurds’ amazing resilience and ability to survive the most brutal assault on their people and culture. The Halabja Museum and Memorial Cemetery is both fascinating and moving.