Africa’s Forgotten World

Juba

South Sudan’s capital seems a bit like the Wild West. Having been neglected for so long under rule from Khartoum, independence in 2011 has seen an explosion of infrastructure and building projects, and the city is changing rapidly to become a modern African capital. It wasn’t always so.

Juba has its origins in the trading post of Gondokoro, the southernmost outpost of the Egyptian authorities in the 19th century, and then fell under joint Anglo-Egyptian. Used by explorers such as Samuel Baker as a jump-off point for expeditions to find the source of the Nile, it was seen as the last semblance of civilisation before one headed off into the unknown beyond.

There are few sights in Juba to speak of, but one thing you won’t miss is the steel bridge spanning the Nile, which is the only connection Juba has to Uganda, from where most of its imports arrive. There is also the mausoleum for Dr John Garang, the former leader of the Sudanese People’s Liberation Army, who was tragically killed in a plane crash before he could see his dreams of an independent South Sudan realised.

Juba’s population is a reflection of its boomtown status, and as well as South Sudanese you will find a multitude of other nationalities here including Kenyans, Ethiopians, Chinese, Egyptian and European. New bars and restaurants are springing up quickly to cater for this influx, the nicest of which are on the banks of the river – the best place to have a drink as the sun goes down.

Toposa people

The Toposa are the principal ethnic group living around Kapoeta and are perhaps the most interesting in the whole country. Closely related to the Turkana of Kenya and the Karamojong of northern Uganda, they are herders with an economy based largely around livestock. They are also prolific cattle raiders, which has led to conflict with other groups in the past, although with the independence of the country and greater stability this is now less of a problem. The Toposa live in villages made of mud and sticks, with thatched roofs often adorned with the skulls of cattle.

The most striking feature of the Toposa is their practice of scarification. Many of the men and women are decorated with elaborate raised patterns caused by careful incision, covering their upper arms, torsos, backs and in some instances their faces. Although modernity is starting to erode their customs, many of the older Toposa still adhere to traditional dress – for women, this is usually animal skins worn around the waist, while men often go naked.

No self-respecting Toposa male will leave his compound without the obligatory AK47 slung over his shoulder – while this does not pose a problem to visitors we do ask that you heed your tour leader’s advice when in the Toposa villages, as central authority is weak here.

The Toposa are likely to be as curious about you as you are about them though – tourism is virtually non-existent and the concept is not well understood, so expect yourself to be the focus of attention somewhat.

To the south of Kapoeta the Toposa pan and dig for gold by the banks of a river – although the quantities are not large the presence of this resource has created something of a mini gold rush, and it is fascinating to watch the traditional methods used here.

Boya people

The Boya live east of the town of Torit, centred around a small and rather ramshackle settlement with the unpoetic name of Camp 15. Living in pretty villages in the shadow of mountains and gigantic boulders, the Boya paint their houses in attractive patterns and adorn themselves with intricate beadwork. Although scarification is practised here, interestingly it is more prevalent among the younger women rather than the older ones, and the local explanation is that they are copying a ‘trend’ from the Toposa, one of their near neighbours.

Traditional mourning dress for Boya women involves wearing animal skins around the waist and binding the legs and arms with thin leaves to make a striped pattern – when a husband dies a Boya woman becomes the property and responsibility of his closest male relative. The Boya are also hunters and it is not uncommon to see groups of children practising their skills with a bow and arrow on the outskirts of villages.

Lotuko people

The Lotuko are the main ethnic group living around Torit, the capital of Eastern Equatoria State. Although less traditional than some other groups, many of the Lotuko live in villages nestled in the hills and hidden among the rocks, which they moved to in order to escape the predations of the civil war. Many of the houses are perched upon raised terraces made of stones, and the general construction and location of the villages make them difficult to see from afar.

In days gone by the Lotuko were led by a ‘rain-maker’ who was the spiritual head of a number of different villages, and it was his job to intercede with the spirits in order to guarantee rain and ensure a profitable harvest. In some villages, it is still possible to find the traditional stone enclosures that served as a meeting point for the men, where problems and issues relating to communal life would be discussed.

Around 100,000 in number, the Lotuko have in many ways embraced modernity to a greater extent than other groups, but the attraction of visiting is to wander around their picturesque settlements, different from the villages of the Boya or Toposa and showing a different perspective of life here in South Sudan.

Mundari people

The Mundari live to the north of Juba, centred around the small settlement of Terekeka. Deriving a living from herding and agriculture they live in small villages and follow a largely traditional lifestyle. Custom dictates that young men and women are marked with a series of parallel V-shaped scars on their forehead – this tradition is now officially discouraged by the government and is starting to die out but most over the age of around 25 will sport these markings.

The Mundari are locally famed wrestlers, and on certain days of the week, young men from neighbouring villages will gather to compete against each other in traditional shows of strength. These are quite a spectacle as the men daub themselves with mud and etch patterns into their bodies, each trying to throw and hold the other to the ground. Watching the surrounding crowd is just as interesting as they cheer and sing songs for their respective teams. This is a chance to see a side of Africa that may not exist for much longer.