Tribal Lands of Cameroon

Douala

The largest city in the country, Douala is chaotic and lively and to some may be intimidating, but offers a great snapshot of modern Cameroon. Although undoubtedly the economic powerhouse of Cameroon, it is not the political capital – Yaoundé, a few hours’ drive away, is where the government is based.

Douala, however, is much older and was founded by the Portuguese when they first arrived in the 15th century – indeed it was the Portuguese that are responsible for the modern name, as it is derived from the word ‘cameroes’ (prawns) a reference to the good fishing that they found here. Today it is a vibrant city with an excellent nightlife, and although like many cities in the region parts are rather run down, it can be a fun place to explore and soak up the tropical ambience.

The Bamileke people

The Bamileke are spread throughout three regions of Cameroon – West, North-West and South-West, and also split between the English and French-speaking regions. Historically, the Bamun and the Bamileke were united, but during the mid-17th century, the Bamiléké people’s forefathers left the north to avoid being forced to convert to Islam and migrated as far south as Foumban. Conquerors came all the way to Foumban to try to impose Islam on them. A war began, pushing some people to leave while others remained, submitting to Islam, which marks the current division between the Bamun and Bamiléké people.

The Bamileke are organised into chiefdoms. The chief, or fon is considered as the spiritual, political, judicial and military leader. The chief is also considered as the ‘Father’ of the chiefdom. The successor of the ‘Father’ is chosen among his children. The successor’s identity is typically kept secret until the fon’s death. The fon has typically 9 ministers and several other advisers and councils. The ministers are in charge of the crowning of the new fon. In addition, a “queen mother” or mafo was an important figure for some fons in the past.

Foumban

Foumban is a predominantly Muslim town and the seat of the Sultanate of the Bamoun people, founded in the fifteenth century and one of the oldest towns in Cameroon. As well as a royal palace there are also some old German colonial buildings, and its museums hold excellent examples of Bamoun arts and crafts as well as exhibits on local history, masks, traditional dress and everyday items that have been used in Bamoun life. It is particularly rich in local culture and crafts and the Rue des Artisans is home to all manner of small shops and workshops making this one of the best places in Central Africa to buy wood carvings.

Yaoundé

Although not the largest city in the country, Yaoundé is the political and administrative capital, and a little more ordered than Douala. It’s also far greener, with pleasant tree-lined streets and the lush Mt Febe overlooking the city. Mt Febe is also the site of a former Benedictine monastery, which now houses a rather excellent museum dedicated to the art and crafts of Cameroon’s many different ethnic groups, with numerous masks and sculptures. Other than that, like most African cities Yaoundé is not big on traditional sights but it’s not a bad place to get to grips with modern urban Africa, and more pleasant than most.

Mbororo People

The Mbororo are traditionally nomadic, searching for new pastures for their sizable flocks of sheep, goats and cattle. They belong to the Fulani ethnic group, a distinction typically being made between the Mbororo and the Peul, who tend to live more settled lives. The Mbororo are very traditional; women plait their hair and often wear silver coins or discs in their hair, and sometimes have tattooed faces. They are the largest nomadic group of people in the world and can be found in many different parts of Africa, from Guinea to Sudan.

At the end of the rainy season in September, Mbororo clans gather in several traditional locations before the beginning of their dry season migration. Here the young Mbororo men, with elaborate make-up, feathers and other adornments, perform the Yaake: dances and songs to impress marriageable women. The male beauty ideal of the Mbororo stresses tallness, white eyes and teeth; the men will often roll their eyes and show their teeth to emphasize these characteristics. Mbororo together with the Fulani, in general, are known for their Gerewol festivals: a series of barters over marriage and contests where the young men’s beauty and skills are judged by young women.

The Dupa

Living in the Vokre Mountains, the Dupa hold on to their way of life and live very much outside the mainstream of Cameroonian society. The Dupa are strongly committed to their traditional culture. The men wear loincloths and women wear fresh leaves, but as usual, the Dupa men are much more receptive to wearing of modern clothes than the women. The Dupa are farmers, and their lives revolve around millet fields. They organize dancing festivities before and after the harvest, where they drink bil-bil, the local beer (fermented millet).