Myanmar – The Golden Land

Yangon

Known as Rangoon under British rule, Yangon is a city that mixes ancient with modern and is changing fast. The centre of the city is characterised by a superb collection of old colonial buildings, the best of which are the City Hall and High Court, but there are numerous examples of the architecture of the Raj dotted around.

As one gets closer and close to the centre the streets become busier, with all manner of stalls taking up pavement space and spilling into the road, selling second hand car parts, fried grubs and exotic fruits among just about everything else you can think of.

Although unmistakably Burmese, or Myanmarese depending on how you see it, Yangon is home to rich array of other cultural influences with Hindu and Chinese temples, synagogues and churches vying for space among the pagodas. Two that you can’t miss are the bright and brash Sule pagoda which sits in the middle of a busy roundabout, and the spectacular Shwedagon Pagoda.

This is without a doubt the most impressive site in Yangon, a wonderful collection of gold encrusted stupas and pagodas with pilgrims arriving from all over the country to worship. Containing numerous images of nats (spirits) and Buddha himself, Shwedagon is immensely important for the Burmese people, and is where Aung San Suu Kyi addressed a crowd of hundreds of thousands demanding democracy from the military regime.

Mandalay

Nestled along the banks of the Irrawaddy River in central Myanmar, Mandalay is a sleepier and more laid-back town compared to Yangon.  It is a superb place to explore – as well as the sites within the town itself there are a multitude of monasteries and pagodas in the surrounding countryside and it’s easy to spend a few days here. Founded in 1857, it was the last capital of independent Burma before the arrival of the British – in their quest for domination of the region the colonial authorities removed the royal family from power and Mandalay lost its brief significance.

Today it is home to a wealth of interesting sights, the most noticeable of which is Mandalay Hill which offers superb views of the city. The climb up the 760ft hill is a key part of the experience and you will need to go barefoot in places as you pass through numerous temples along the way. According to legend, the Buddha climbed Mandalay Hill and prophesised that a great city would be founded below the hill.

Shwenandaw Monastery is a great example of a traditional Burmese wooden monastery, decorated with intricate carvings, while Kuthodaw is touted as the ‘world’s biggest book’, the pagoda containing 729 white marble slabs  on which the books of the Buddhist text the Tripitaka are written. Also of interest is the Royal Palace. The original was lost to fire but it was reconstructed -controversially – in the 1990s and shows how the last kings of Burma once lived.

Amarapura

One of several former royal capitals clustered around Mandalay, Amarapura is best known for its picturesque footbridge – at a kilometre in length it is said to be the longest teak bridge in the world, built in 1849 and with over a thousand posts supporting it. Much used by locals to cross from one side of Taungthaman Lake to the other, it’s a great place for people watching, with fishermen casting nets below, vendors sitting on the edges and monks strolling along from one monastery to another.

On one side of the lake lies the Maha Ganayon Kyaung monastery, home to thousands of young monks – although it’s a modern monastery it’s interesting to visit to gain an insight into an incredibly important part of Burmese life.

Bagan
The temples and pagodas of Bagan make up one of Asia’s most breathtaking architectural ensembles, covering an area of around 40 square kilometres and seemingly stretching as far as the eye can see.

An important regional power between the 11th and 13th centuries, Bagan fell into decline after the invasion of the Mongols under Kublai Khan, but while the houses and dwelling of ordinary people have been lost to history, thankfully the sturdier built temples stood the test of time. The most impressive temples include Thatbyinnyu, Ananda Pahto, Shwesandaw and the mighty Dhammayangyi, situated in the middle of the plain but there are dozens scattered throughout the area, and it’s easy to find a deserted pagoda in some quiet corner to explore and soak up the atmosphere with no-one else in sight. Exploring these magnificent buildings, wandering through dark and dusty corridors and marvelling at the statues and frescoes within is a true highlight not just of Myanmar but of all of Asia.

Best of all, head up to the terrace of a lonely pagoda in the late afternoon and watch the sun set over the plains, the stupas glowing in the fading light of day, and imagine what Bagan must have been like in its heyday – an experience to take your breath away.

Inle Lake

Inle Lake is one of Burma’s most beautiful natural sites, a vast, 22km stretch of water flanked by stilt villages and with a backdrop of the Shan hills. Inle is renowned for its ‘leg -rowing fishermen’ who propel their craft in a most unusual, and very photogenic way, but there are numerous other reasons to spend a couple of days here. Floating markets are held at different villages on different days, while villages like Indein contain fascinating ruins to explore.

A boat trip through hyacinth choked waterways reveals small settlements with water buffalo wading into the water, and wooden monasteries that have been here for centuries. The hills behind the lake are home to the Pa-O people, and you’re likely to see them strolling into town or at the markets wearing their traditional headgear.