Lebanon – Beirut, the Bekaa Valley and Beyond

Beirut
Surrounded by the Mediterranean Sea lies Beirut, a city home to over two million people. Beirut has transformed itself since the 15 -year civil war in Lebanon from 1975-1990, and now exudes much of the city’s pre-war cosmopolitan and epicurean charm. Restored Ottoman architecture, a pervasive and chic café culture and a variety of souks define downtown Beirut, while the southern suburbs provide a poignant reminder of the city’s roots – home to thousands of Palestinian and Shi’ite Muslim refugees and immersed in the wider Middle Eastern politics, it provides a contrast to the modernity of the north.

Beirut’s reconstruction has been both physical and psychological, and the locals are friendly, tolerant and varied in comparison to much of the rest of the Middle East. Nightlife, cinemas, art galleries and theatre are commonplace here, reflecting the cosmopolitan quality of the city as a whole.

Tyre
Tyre’s main attraction lies in its functional and traditional fishing port – home to colourful boats, seafood restaurants and friendly fishermen at work – authentic and lively souks, Roman architecture, including some beautiful churches, and archaeological sites. During the summer months, the beaches also come alive with music, parties and food, with alcohol permitted despite the Muslim population.

A number of festivals take place in Tyre throughout the year. The Ashura festival is an annual festival of remembrance and is of the utmost religious importance for the Shi’ite locals. Taking place in a nearby village over a nine-day period, this festival is entirely unique, even in Lebanon, and involves women screaming, children chanting and men cutting themselves with razors to re-enact the suffering of the prophet.

Sidon

Lebanon’s third largest city, Sidon, or Saida, dominates much of the south of Lebanon. Home to predominantly Sunni Muslims, it is conservative, laid back and traditional compared to the more dynamic capital, with little nightlife to be found at all. In fact, only one restaurant in the entire city serves alcohol at present. However, what it lacks in vibrancy, it makes up for in authenticity, with traditional souks and artisan trade indicating an archetypal Arab city.

Sat on the coast of Lebanon, Sidon took advantage of its favourable geographic location to establish an empire. Despite this, it was heavily affected by the civil war and by Israeli occupation. Surrounded by thickets of bananas and citrus fruits, today it offers a relaxing few days, with picturesque scenery, museums, a fishing port and the well-known sea castle.

Aammiq Wetlands

A vast area of land, made up of marshes, lakes and swamps, the Aammiq Wetlands is Lebanon’s largest freshwater reserve and one of the few remaining in the Middle East. It lies on one of the most significant migratory bird routes in the eastern Mediterranean, home to over 250 species of bird including the endangered Greater spotted eagle, Lesser kestrel and Ferruginous duck. This thriving ecosystem is also home to swamp cats, otters, foxes, hedgehogs and many more. It is a flourishing and essential habitat and is home to a plethora of Lebanese flora and fauna.

In the past, man-made activity such as hunting, the dumping of waste and farming threatened irreparable damage to the wetlands. In 1996, the organisation A Rocha Lebanon intervened, committing themselves to saving the marshes and its wildlife population. They continued their essential work since – not only has hunting been restricted, but research, conservation and educating local communities and students is being carried out in order to emphasize the importance of this precious area of land.

Byblos
Byblos is one of the oldest continuously inhabited towns in the world and this is immediately apparent when visiting. Reflecting the past and present in equal measure, the town’s architecture exists as a reminder of its history. UNESCO listed the town as a World Heritage Site in 1984, recognising the importance of its archaeology and the fascinating history of the town. Most significantly, when inhabited by the Phoenicians, the town gave birth to the alphabet upon which our modern version is based – aptly named ‘Byblos’ by the ancient Greeks.

Quaint and charming, Byblos is home to a working harbour, still reflecting its humble beginnings as an unexceptional, Neolithic fishing port. The port is surrounded by seafood restaurants, stunning landscapes and souks which offer the best and most unique souvenirs in the Lebanon. The Byblos International Festival is held annually during the summer months and hosts a variety of musical performances, from Flamenco and Jazz to Opera and Pop, by both local and international artists. Voted the Arab world’s best tourist city by UNWTO in 2013 and residing close to the country’s capital, Byblos is definitely worth a visit.

Qadisha Valley
Qadisha Valley, meaning ‘Holy’ Valley, is a beautiful example of Lebanese nature and scenery. Expect to see vast mountains, and flora such as buttercups and poppies, when visiting this spectacular valley. As a very important, ancient Christian monastic settlement – one of the most important in the world – Qadisha also has a fascinating history.

During spring and summertime, Qadisha Valley is perfect for trekking and hiking, especially in such unspoilt and magnificent terrain. The valley is wild and raw in comparison to surrounding cities, and the mountain passes are often treacherous and steep. However, the beautiful surroundings make the challenge worth it.

Tripoli
Tripoli is a vast city – the second largest in Lebanon and home to a population of 250,000, mostly Sunni Muslims. Often overlooked, this city offers a vast array of Mamluk-period architecture, one of the largest collections in the world, as well as traditional souks and a plethora of artisans selling anything from jewellery to authentic, tailored clothing. Arguably Tripoli’s only recognisable monument is the Crusader Castle of Raymond de Saint-Giles, which has been reconstructed numerous times over recent years, dating back to the first crusade. There are a number of beautiful mosques in the city too, demonstrating magnificent Mamluk architecture. They are definitely worth a visit – especially the Taynal Mosque.