Ladakh – Journey across the Roof of the World

Delhi

Delhi needs little introduction. As India’s capital it is a microcosm of the country itself, with vast wealth and grinding poverty existing side by side, and stunning architecture not so far from shanty towns without any infrastructure. Its streets redefine the very notion of chaos, with tuk tuks, ox-carts and cows mingling with shiny 4WDs belonging to India’s growing middle class.

Delhi’s origins are obscured somewhat by the sands of time, but it is thought that it dates back to around 1000 BC as the capital of the Pandava kingdom. Throughout its existence, it has seen numerous conquerors come and go, from the Turkic groups of Central Asia to the Mongol leader Tamerlane, but its history is perhaps today most associated with the Moghuls, who left it with a stunning array of monuments including the Red Fort, Jama Masjid and others.

Delhi has changed a lot in the past couple of decades, modernising immensely, but look in the back streets and hidden quarters to see scenes of life that have changed little in centuries. Some people love it, some hate it, but Delhi never fails to leave a lasting impression.

Leh

Ladakh’s capital Leh is dominated by the nine storey palace, a building in the grand tradition of Tibetan architecture, said to have inspired the famous Potala in Lhasa, which was built half a century later. Above it, on the peak overlooking the town, are the ruins of a 16th century fort which served as the earliest royal residence at Leh.

Leh has a colourful bazaar with shops selling curios and jewellery, including many Tibetan items. A particularly charming sight is the line of women from nearby villages sitting along the edge of the footpath with baskets of fresh vegetables brought for sale to the townspeople.

The best way to see the capital is simply by walking through its streets. Along the main street the Buddhist women with their tall hats chatter freely as they sell vegetables. Narrow lanes veer up and wind their way through the old city. You pass old dwellings clustered together on the slope and finally end up at the 16th century Leh Khar Palace and its gompa, the Temple of the Guardian Deities, perched on top of the hill. Though ruined and austere for ages, Leh Palace still makes an unforgettable backdrop to the mud city.

Shey, Tikse and Hemis monasteries

About 15kms south of Leh sits Shey, the seat of power of the first king of Ladakh, who constructed the hill top fortress now in ruins above the present Shey Palace. The main image in the monastery is the three-storey statue of Buddha Shakyamuni, made of copper gilt, which was made by Deldan Namgyal in the memory of his father Singay Namgyal. The statue is the only of its kind in the region.

The 500-year old Tikse monastery perched on a hill high above the Indus, has the largest contingent of monks in Ladakh and belongs to the Gelukpa order. Around 80 monks reside here at present. Dukhang Karmo is a huge long assembly hall, which contains the image of Shakyamuni and Maitreya Buddha statues. Numerous other statues and representations can be found within the monastery.

Hemis is one of the largest, richest and most famous monasteries, belonging to the Dukpa order. The monastery was founded in the 17th century and is now home to an annual festival, which takes place in June each year; every twelfth year an enormous thanka, which covers the whole monastery, is displayed.

Nubra Valley

The Nubra Valley is a high-altitude cold desert, sitting at about 3000 metres above sea level and with stark but beautiful landscapes. For much of the year this region is isolated, and it was only recently that tourists were granted permission to visit this remote area of Ladakh. As a result of its isolation, the valley offers a unique opportunity to see the Buddhist traditions of the Himalayas, virtually untainted by modern influences. In Diskit, the centre of the valley, Buddhist stupas line the roads, prayer wheels dot the streets and you are continually reminded of the deep spirituality of the people here. Nubra is also famous for its Bactrian camels – the sight of these among the sand dunes, with a backdrop of high peaks, is unforgettable.