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Djibouti, Ethiopia, Somaliland - 13 days
Djibouti, the Danakil Depression and Somaliland
Prices from £4,099
Djibouti, the Danakil Depression and Somaliland
Prices from £4,099
The horn of Africa is a fascinating mélange of cultures, from nomadic herders to Arabian traders and influences from across the Indian Ocean. It is also home to some of the continent’s most remote and breathtaking landscapes, a land where the taste of the wild is in the air, simply begging the intrepid traveller to explore. Starting in Djibouti we visit Lac Assal and the spectacular Lac Abbe, a vast salt lake with tall limestone chimneys belching gas into the air that looks for all the world like it should be on another planet. We then cross into Ethiopia, heading into the Afar desert and meeting the formidable Afar people, once feared throughout the region. We hike up the volcano of Erta Ale and marvel at its lava lake, visit the hot springs at Dallol – the hottest place on earth – and look out for camel caravans carting blocks of salt across the desert.
From Addis Ababa we fly to Hargeisa, the capital of Somaliland where we explore the central markets, full of exceptionally friendly traders. At Las Geel see incredible rock art which was only discovered a few years ago, and in the coastal city of Berbera explore the streets of Darole, packed full of Ottoman era architecture and reminiscent of the better known towns of the Swahili Coast. Finally, on our way back to Hargeisa we drive off road through gorgeous landscapes to the rock paintings of Dhagax Khoure, meeting nomadic communities en route. There are few places in the world that can compete with this region for real adventure.
Day 1 – Djibouti
Arrive in Djibouti and transfer to your hotel.
Day 2 – Lac Assal
We head to the crater lake of Lac Assal – one of Africa’s most impressive natural phenomena, its spectacular colours and unusual crystalline formations give it an almost alien appearance.
Day 3 – Lac Abbe
Drive to Lac Abbe, stopping en route to meet local people and arriving in the late afternoon to watch the sun set over one of Africa’s most enigmatic and breathtaking regions.
Day 4 – Lac Abbe – Semera
This morning we visit the extraordinary landscape of Lac Abbe, a desolate salt lake with hundreds of limestone chimneys belching sulphur into the atmosphere.
Day 5 – Lake Afrera
Drive to the turquoise Afrera Lake, surrounded by palm trees and home to local Afar people harvesting salt flakes using traditional methods.
Day 6 – Erta Ale
Drive to Mount Erta Ale through the Afar desert – Erta Ale is one of the highlights of this expedition, and is one of only five permanent lava lakes in the world. Hike to the rim to see one of the world’s most spectacular sights when the red lava in the crater lights up the sky.
Day 7 – Ahmedela
Drive to Ahmedela along unmarked sandy tracks, passing Afar settlements along the way.
Day 8 – Dallol – Mekelle
Drive to the hot springs at Dallol, composed of different minerals along with sulphurs and potash and create spectacular colours. You are likely to see the long ‘caravane de sel’ – camel trains loaded with salt.
Day 9 – Addis Ababa
Fly back to Addis Ababa.
Day 10 – Hargeisa
Fly to Hargeisa and explore its lively markets.
Day 11 – Las Geel – Berbera
Discover the incredible rock art of Las Geel and explore the Red Sea town of Berbera, with its interesting historic quarter.
Day 12 – Dhagax Koure – Hargeisa
Return to Hargeisa visiting the rock art of Dhagax Koure on the way.
Day 13 – Hargeisa
Transfer to the airport.
Day 1 – Djibouti
Arrive in Djibouti and transfer to your hotel. Depending on when you arrive there may be time to explore the capital. Overnight Hotel Plein Ciel or similar.
Tucked away in the Horn of Africa, Djibouti is one of the smallest countries on the continent and receives very few visitors. A French colony until 1977, it was one of the last African nations to gain independence. Djibouti’s main asset is its port, providing an outlet for landlocked Ethiopia to send goods across the Red Sea and Indian Ocean, and Djibouti Town is the country’s liveliest hub, although in a country with a traditionally nomadic population, that’s not saying much. The capital is a fascinating mix of African, Asian, Arab and European influences and is divided into an African and European quarter – it is small enough to explore by walking around and although there are few traditional sights the main appeal is soaking up the atmosphere of this cosmopolitan little city, with French legionnaires mixing with nomadic Afar tribesmen, and women dressed in outrageously colourful robes. Djibouti Town has an allure that is hard to put your finger on.
Day 2 – Lac Assal
We head to the crater lake of Lac Assal – the lowest point in Africa (-150 m), as well as the most saline body of water in the world (up to 40%). One of Africa’s most impressive natural phenomena, its spectacular colours and unusual crystalline formations give it an almost alien appearance. We may see Afar herders or salt collectors on its shores. Return to Tadjoura for the night. Overnight beach bungalows. (BLD)
Surrounded by dormant volcanoes, Lac Assal is an impressive sight; the salt flats contrast with the black lava fields and there are numerous large crystal formations dotted around. The lake is fed by hot saline springs making it unique among salt lakes, as all others are fed by streams and rivers, and it has no outlet, which contributes to its extremely high level of salinity. As well as being the lowest point in Africa it is the third lowest depression in the world after the Dead Sea and the Sea of Galilee.
Day 3 – Lac Abbe
Drive to Lac Abbe, stopping en route to meet local people and arriving in the late afternoon to watch the sun set over one of Africa’s most enigmatic and breathtaking regions. Overnight Lac Abbe Camp. (BLD)
Day 4 – Lac Abbe – Semera
This morning we visit the extraordinary landscape of Lac Abbe, a desolate salt lake with hundreds of limestone chimneys belching sulphur into the atmosphere. This landscape is so other-worldly that the classic science fiction film ‘Planet of the Apes’ was filmed here. From here we cross into Ethiopia and head to Semera, where we stay for the night. Overnight Semera Hotel or similar. (BLD)
There can be few places in the world like Lac Abbe and it holds the distinction of being one of the most desolate places on our planet. Situated on the border between Ethiopia and Djibouti, this vast salt lake is surrounded by hundreds of limestone chimneys, some up to 50 metres high which spew sulphurous gas into the air, and its shores are inhabited by the nomadic Afar people who use the lake to gather salt. The lake is also renowned for its birdlife, with flamingoes, pelicans and ibis among other species to be found here. It is difficult to put into words such awe-inspiring scenery – this is jaw dropping on a grand scale.
Day 5 – Lake Afrera
Drive to the turquoise Afrera Lake, surrounded by palm trees. The Afrera salt lake is home to local Afar people harvesting salt flakes using traditional methods, and in the lake is the world’s lowest lying island in the world, Frachetti island (-102 m). Overnight camping. (BLD)
Day 6 – Erta Ale
Drive to Mount Erta Ale through the Afar desert – Erta Ala is one of the highlights of this expedition, and is one of only five permanent lava lakes in the world. We hike 3 hours to the rim, while our equipment and water is carried by camels – we wait for sunset to see one of the world’s most spectacular sights when the red lava in the crater lights up the sky. Overnight camping. (BLD)
Erta Ale hike
The gently climbing hike itself follows interesting lava formations (lava and pahoehoe lava fields, lava tubes, hornitos, sand deposits, rare vegetation) until we stand on the rim of the caldera. An easy descend brings us to the floor of the caldera and after 10 minutes, we stand on the active pit crater containing the boiling lava lake.
Day 7 – Ahmedela
Drive to Ahmedela along unmarked sandy tracks, passing Afar settlements along the way. Ahmedela is the base for exploring the salt mines and seeing the salt workers and camel caravans. Overnight camping. (BLD)
Day 8 – Dallol – Mekelle
Drive to the hot springs at Dallol, composed of different minerals along with sulphurs and potash and create spectacular colours. Dallol is renowned as being the hottest inhabited place on earth; between 1960 and 1966 an average annual temperature of 34°C (94°F) was recorded. You are likely to see the long ‘caravane de sel’ – camel trains loaded with salt. Later we drive to Mekelle for the night. Axum Hotel or similar. (BLD)
The Danakil Depression
The formidable Danakil Depression is known as one of the most inhospitable places on earth, with searing temperatures and little flora or fauna. It is the lowest place on the planet, created when the earth’s crust collapsed and water flooded in, only to evaporate in the fierce sun leaving enormous salt flats and salt lakes. These are important for the local Afar people, who collect this important commodity to sell at markets. Geologically, it is one of the most active places on the planet, and volcanic cones and lava spewing from the ground in places. To travel here feels like you are travelling to the ends of the earth, a remote, hostile, volcanic desert with spectacular landscapes where few western travellers have been before, and our journey of exploration allows us to do more than just scratch the surface, taking us to areas that define the very essence of ‘off the beaten track’. It has also been home to a number of important fossil discoveries, giving clues to the earliest ancestors of humans. The Danakil today is populated by the nomadic Afar people, a group once renowned for their hostility towards outsiders. In times gone by, Afar men could only be considered adults once they had killed another man, and are reputed to have worn their dead enemies’ testicles around their necks. They are thankfully no longer as fierce as they once were, and to meet them is to meet one of the most isolated ethnic groups on our planet.
Day 9 – Addis Ababa
Fly back to Addis Ababa, for your final night in Ethiopia. Overnight Hotel Jupiter International or similar. (B)
Day 10 – Hargeisa
Fly to Hargeisa and transfer to the hotel. This afternoon we explore the city and visit its markets, see the moneychangers, who sit on the street with their huge piles of Somaliland shillings and see the civil war memorial. Overnight Damal Hotel or similar. (B)
Somaliland’s capital is a pleasant city – fairly small, unassuming and with a relaxed and rather gentle air that is often missing from African cities. Almost completely destroyed during the civil war of the 1980s, most buildings that you see are new and there are few historic sights, but one thing that you can’t miss is the unique civil war memorial in the centre of town, topped by a MiG jet that was downed during the conflict. The central market area is the most interesting place to explore – stalls sell everything from slabs of meat to brightly coloured cloth, and your presence here is sure to attract more than a few gazes. On one street sit the moneychangers, with great bricks of Somali shillings laid out on the pavement – it is a measure of how little crime there is here that they are able to do this, and an incredibly photogenic sight. Hargeisa also has a busy livestock market on the outskirts of town, which is well worth a visit.
Day 11 – Las Geel – Berbera
Drive to Las Geel, one of the most important rock art sites in the Horn of Africa and with numerous well preserved paintings in various different places. The quality of the art here is particularly good and Las Geel is a real highlight of the trip. From here we continue to the coastal city of Berbera, and in the afternoon explore its old quarter, Darole, with its Ottoman era buildings and atmospheric streets. Overnight Mansoor Hotel or similar. (B)
Only revealed to the outside world a little more than ten years ago, the rock paintings of Las Geel rank among the best in all of Africa. Superbly preserved in caves and under overhanging rocks, the paintings consist of cows, dogs and people as well as the odd giraffe here and there, and anywhere else they would be a major tourist attraction. With the handful of visitors Somaliland receives you are almost guaranteed to have this enigmatic site all to yourself. No-one has yet determined the age of the site – guesses range from five to ten thousand years, but the paintings remain a testament to the pastoral traditions of Somaliland’s ancient inhabitants.
Berbera sits on the Red Sea coast, an important port for the whole region but with an atmosphere that belies this fact somewhat. The most interesting part of the city is the old quarter known as Darole, an area of dusty streets and ramshackle buildings, some of which date back to the time when the Ottomans held sway here. Crennellated mansions vie for space with whitewashed mosques, and pastel paint peels off walls interspersed with colourful doorways – when the heat of the day has passed this is a fascinating and very rewarding place to wander around, perhaps stopping for a tea in one of the makeshift cafes. Not far outside of the town lie the Dubar waterworks, an ancient irrigation system that has been resurrected in recent years to provide fresh water for Berbera’s inhabitants. Berbera is locally renowned for its excellent seafood restaurants, where you can sit and eat some of the freshest fish you’re ever likely to have while looking out at the rusting hulks of ships in the port.
Day 12 – Dhagax Khoure – Hargeisa
Return to Hargeisa and visit the site of Dhagax Khoure, one of Somaliland’s most important sites for rock art and situated amidst some splendid scenery. On the way out here we pass small semi-nomadic communities and stop to meet local people. After exploring the paintings of Dhagax Khoure we return to Hargeisa for the night. Overnight Damal Hotel or similar. (B)
Although not as impressive as its better known cousin Las Geel, the site of Dhagax Khoure holds some stunning rock art, with numerous images of cows, hunters, giraffes and other animals tucked away under overhanging rocks and in caves. The surrounding scenery is just as much of an attraction, with hills of boulders emerging from the desert plains, and if you’re lucky you may see wildlife such as gerenuk and warthog.
Day 13 – Hargeisa
Transfer to the airport for departure. (B)
Airport transfers – We include arrival and departure transfers regardless of whether you book flights yourself, or we book them for you. If you’re booking them yourself, then please let us know the details so that we can arrange the transfers.
Please note though that if you arrive earlier than Day 1 of the tour, and leave after the final day, we may need to make an additional charge for an airport transfer.
Accommodation – Accommodation as listed in the dossier. The nature of the destinations that we operate may sometimes mean that we need to change hotels, but we’ll always endeavour to keep the same standards. Please be aware that as we operate in many countries where tourism is in its infancy, hotel standards may not be the same as you’re used to elsewhere.
Guides – In most cases you will be accompanied by one guide from start to finish. However there may be occasions when this is not practical, for example if your trip covers a number of different countries. In these cases it often makes more sense to include different guides for each place, to take advantage of their specific knowledge of the destination.
Meals – As listed within the itinerary / dossier (B-Breakfast, L-Lunch, D-Dinner). These will vary from trip to trip – in some areas it makes sense to include all meals while in others there is a good choice of restaurants and we feel people might like to ‘do their own thing’ now and again.
Entrance fees – Entrance fees are listed for those sites that we mention within the itinerary. If there are any other sites that you’d like to see, these would be at your own expense.
Flight – From Addis Ababa to Hargeisa
What’s not included:
Visas – We don’t arrange visas for our travellers, but if an invitation letter is necessary then we will arrange this for you. If you need any advice with visas then just give us a call, or alternatively a visa agency such as Travcour (www.travcour.com) can assist.
Airport taxes – If there are any departure taxes to pay that are not included within the cost of your ticket, you’ll need to pay these yourself.
International flights – Many of our travellers arrive from different destinations and so we don’t include international flights in the cost of our tours. If however you would like us to book flights for you, then just give us a call and we’ll be happy to discuss your options.
Travel Insurance – If you need any assistance with this, then let us know – although we can’t arrange it ourselves we can point you in the direction of a reputable provider that can assist.
Most travellers will require a visa to enter Ethiopia. This can either be obtained in your home country, or for many nationalities at Addis Ababa airport upon arrival, but not at land borders. A visa for Djibouti can be obtained upon arrival at the airport; costs at the time of writing are €90, and you should bring two passport photos – not always requested but we recommend that you don’t risk being refused entry.
Most travellers will require a visa to enter Somaliland, which is hampered by the fact that as an ‘unoffical country’ there are very few embassies. However, they can be obtained in both London and Washington, and it is also possible to arrange visas upon arrival for travellers coming from a country in which there is no representation.
Visa regulations can change however and so we recommend that you contact your nearest embassy for the most up to date information.
Health and vaccinations
We are not medically qualified and so we recommend that you speak to your doctor or nearest health professional for advice concerning recommended vaccinations. For more advice on vaccinations you can also visit www.fitfortravel.nhs.uk.
A Yellow Fever vaccination certificate is required for entry to Ethiopia and you must bring this with you.
It is a condition of joining our tours that you have suitable travel insurance in place, and we cannot accept travellers without insurance. All policies differ in terms of what they will cover, but as a minimum you need medical and health cover which will cover you for the whole time that you are away. Most policies will also include cancellation cover, which will cover you if an unforeseen circumstance obliges you to cancel your trip. We recommend that you obtain your insurance as soon as you book your trip.
Please note that government travel warnings often affect the validity of your travel insurance, and you should check this with your insurance company.
Arrival and departure taxes
There are no arrival or departure taxes applicable for either Ethiopia or Djibouti. There is an arrival tax of $34 and a departure tax of $44 which must be paid when entering and leaving Somaliland. These must be paid in US dollars.
The local currency in Ethiopia is the birr, and in Djibouti the franc. It is best to bring US dollars for exchange purposes. The local currency in Somaliland is the Somaliland shilling. However, almost everywhere will accept payment in US dollars and so there is little point in changing money. You should bring clean and unmarked notes that have been issued after 2009, otherwise it can be difficult to exchange them.
It’s easy to change money in Ethiopia, either at banks or the hotels and your guide can assist with this. There are also an increasing number of ATMs in larger towns. However these are not always reliable and so it is best to think of them as a back up rather than a main means of obtaining money. Also do bear in mind that you are travelling through remote parts of both countries – we recommend changing money in Djibouti Town, and then again when you cross into Ethiopia, and your guide will be able to help you with this.
Credit cards are accepted in larger hotels and better restaurants (usually in Addis) but are not commonly accepted elsewhere.
When to go
The best time to visit Djibouti and this part of Ethiopia is during our winter months – it is fiercely hot in Djibouti and the Danakil Depression at other times of year.
The best time to visit Somaliland is from October to March – outside of this time it can get very hot, especially on the coast and although it’s possible to travel in the summer it is far less enjoyable.
Culture – language and religion
Ethiopia is home to an astonishing number of different ethnic groups, all of which hold their own belief systems and speak their own languages. However, the official religion is Christianity, and especially in the north of the country Christian traditions are prevalent. In the east Islam dominates, especially around the town of Harar, while the southern tribal groups follow indigenous belief systems. The official language of the country is Amharic but you will find that many people, especially in the tourist industry, will speak English.
In Djibouti most people are Muslim, and Somali is the predominant language. Other languages include Afar, French and Arabic.
Somaliland is almost completely Muslim, and very few other religions exist here, if at all. Western culture has made few inroads into this country and almost all women will cover their heads – female travellers may feel more comfortable bringing a headscarf to wear, although it’s not compulsory.
The official language here is Somali, spoken by just about everyone. English is spoken as a second language and among the younger and better educated sections of Somaliland society.
Eating and drinking
Ethiopia has a fairly unique cuisine that is much more exciting than other countries in East Africa. Injera, a sort of pancake made from the teff grain, is a mainstay at every meal, and this will be accompanied by various spicy stews of meat and vegetables. A particular favourite is shiro, main from chickpeas. Ethiopia also has ‘fasting days’ when meat dishes are generally not available. You’ll find many western dishes on offer in the larger hotels, and spaghetti is ubiquitous – a long lasting legacy of the Italians’ short involvement in the country. Alcoholic drinks are readily available – an Ethiopian speciality is tej, a honey wine served in small vials.
With its position on the Red Sea coast Djibouti has absorbed a many different culinary influences, from Middle Eastern to Indian, and meat and rice dishes tend to be fairly common.
Typical Somali food consists of rice and meat, covered in some sort of spicy sauce. Vegetables are not a big part of the Somali diet and it can be quite difficult to find true vegetarian meals outside of the larger hotels that cater to international guests – even ‘meat free’ dishes probably have some sort of meat stock in them. In the hotels you can usually find a selection of western style food as well, while in Berbera seafood is popular, with a couple of decent restaurants on the shore.
Alcohol is not available in Somaliland, and is illegal to bring into the country.
A typical meal in a hotel or decent restaurant will cost between $5-10.
When camping your cook will provide meals of both European and local styles; pasta and stews can be expected.
You should advise us when you book if you have any special dietary requirements. We will try to accommodate you as much as possible, but we cannot always guarantee this.
Luggage and packing
The first rule of packing is not to bring too much. There will be plenty of occasions where you’ll need to carry your luggage yourself and so you should be able to do this without help. Most people are surprised at how little they actually need to bring, and it’s normally possible to get laundry done along the way. It doesn’t matter whether you bring a suitcase, rucksack or holdall, but please don’t bring more than 20kg of luggage as this may be difficult to accommodate in the vehicles we use. You’ll also need a day pack.
There are no special dress rules for either country, but you should dress respectfully when entering mosques, and monasteries – legs and upper arms should be covered. Do also bear in mind that Addis Ababa is the third highest capital city in the world and it can get chilly in the evenings.
You’ll need to bring a sleeping bag for the nights spent camping.
Somaliland is a conservative Muslim country and women in particular will draw a lot of attention with uncovered legs and upper arms, although most Somalis are too polite to actually say anything. Shorts for men are frowned upon. Almost all Somali women cover their hair, and women visitors may feel more comfortable following their lead.
You’ll be walking around a number of sites and villages, as well as walking up Erta Ale (where applicable), so do consider this when selecting shoes or boots.
You don’t need to be especially fit to join our trips in Ethiopia and Djibouti, but there will be stairs to climb, hills to walk and sites to explore, so you’ll enjoy it more if you have a reasonable level of fitness. The walk up Erta Ale takes around 4-5 hours and your luggage will be transported by camels or mules.
In the Horn of Africa, like many of the destinations we offer, environmental thinking is not at the forefront of everyday life and you will see a lot of litter in places. However, we ask that you don’t contribute to this and to please take all litter back to the hotel where it can be disposed of properly, including cigarette butts.
Especially in the larger cities, you may come across beggars. There’s no hard and fast answer on this and everyone has a different view – some feel that giving simply encourages begging while others see it as helping someone in need. Some guidebooks will tell you that you should only give if you see a local person also giving, to determine whether the beggar is genuine. The issue is particularly difficult when it comes to children, but we’d ask that you don’t give to children as in poor communities this can often act as a discouragement to going to school. If you feel that you’d like to contribute then speak with your guide who will be able to make appropriate suggestions.
Most people like to take photos, and it’s sometimes easy to forget that the photogenic person in front of you may not want their picture taken. Always ask if it’s okay, and respect their wishes if they say no. You’ll often find that in remote villages or among more traditional communities the older generation, and women in particular, are not comfortable with having their picture taken.
On the subject of photography, it’s often forbidden to take photos of ‘sensitive’ areas such as military buildings or border posts, and doing so can land you in trouble with the authorities. If you’re not sure, ask your guide.
If you’re happy with the services of your guide and driver then we would recommend leaving a tip for them at the end of your trip. The amount is entirely up to you, but a reasonable amount for a group to tip would be between £80-120 to both the driver and guide for Djibouti and Ethiopia, and perhaps between $50-70 to the guide and perhaps $30-50 to the driver in Somaliland – however it is not obligatory and if you do not wish to tip then this is up to you.
When travelling to some of the destinations we offer you need to bear in mind that things won’t always work here as we’re used to them working at home. Travelling in underdeveloped and untouristed destinations requires both patience and a sense of humour. There may be problems with infrastructure, attitudes may be different, and maintenance may not be as high a standard as we would always like, but this is very much part and parcel of travelling in such a place. We aim to resolve any issues as quickly as possible, and thank you for your patience.
Somaliland is one of the more challenging destinations that we offer, and we do not recommend this trip unless you are accustomed to travel in Africa. There is almost no tourist industry to speak of and therefore people are very unaccustomed to western visitors, and what they may expect in terms of service. Having said that, the larger hotels are well geared up to cater for the increasing number of business travellers that Somaliland receives, and are comfortable.
We keep a very close eye on the travel advice issued by the UK Foreign and Commonwealth Office so that we can keep you up to date with any warnings. At the time of writing the FCO does not advise against travel to the parts of Djibouti or Ethiopia that we visit on this tour.
At the time of writing the FCO advises against all travel to Somalia, including Somaliland – as Somaliland is an unrecognised country they do not distinguish between Somalia and the far more stable Somaliland.
Should you have any concerns over safety please do not hesitate to contact us and we can address your concerns. Somaliland is a very different entity from Somalia proper and does not experience the same problems. We have visited the country ourselves, work very closely with our local team and are fully confident that we can operate tours safely in this region.
Should you have any concerns over safety please do not hesitate to contact us and we can address your concerns.
This relates to advice from the British government – other nationalities need to check the stance of their own governments.
Ethiopia – The Bradt Guide
The Danakil Diary
The State of Africa
Somaliland – The Bradt Guide
First Footsteps in East Africa
Please note that the information contained above is highly susceptible to change, and while we endeavour to keep up to date we recommend that you use this as a guide only. Should you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to contact us.
Updated 24 April 2017
Quite a delightful country with exceptionally friendly people and far better infrastructure than I had thought. The Mansoor Hotel in Hargeisa was a very good base for our explorations and clearly very popular with ex-pats and NGOs. Itinerary was well paced and interesting – I would have liked to get further east but understand why this is not possible at the moment. Nevertheless the trip suited my interests well and I felt like you knew the country well from our discussions beforehand, which is always helpful when travelling to ‘far flung’ places like this. Please pass on my thanks to your local team – they worked very hard and it would be nice if more tourists came.
|12 November 2017||£4,099||£425||Available||
|11 November 2018||£4,099||£425||Available||
|10 November 2019||£4,199||£425||Available||