Albania, Kosovo and Macedonia

Tirana

Modern Tirana was founded in the 17th-century by the Ottomans, but remained a fairly unimportant town until the early 20th century when it was proclaimed capital of the recently independent Albania. It is characterised by an interesting mix of architectural styles, from the stark buildings of the Communist era, to the remnants of Ottoman rule. The city’s inception as capital was accompanied by a programme of construction led by Italian architects. Its numerous public parks and green spaces are where people congregate to socialise, play board games and walk.

Following the 2000 elections, the mayor of Tirana decided to ‘brighten up’ the city and a number of buildings are painted in bold colours, not to the liking of all of the inhabitants and giving it a rather garish feel in some places. The centre of the city is Skanderbeg Square, named after the ubiquitous Albanian national hero. Nearby stand some of its older and more impressive sights – the 18th-century Mosque of Ethem Bey and the clock tower, which gives a feel of the Ottoman origins of Tirana.

Mirdita region

This is one of Albania’s most traditional areas, with a culture based around clan associations that is almost feudal in nature. External influences have made few inroads into this mountainous and remote area and it is perhaps the best place in the country to get a glimpse of how most Albanians would have lived not so long ago. Mirdita was ruled according to ancient and traditional rules known as ‘Code of Lek Dukagjini’. The traditional kullas are an important part of the culture here – these robust buildings often played an important part in the resolution of the blood feuds which were once common here, and men from one clan would lock themselves in for months on end until their enemies had cooled down.

Shkodra

Shkodra is one of the oldest and most historic towns in Albania, enjoying a strategic position close to the ports of the Adriatic and major trade routes. With a history stretching back to the time of the Illyrian civilisation, many Albanians feel it to be the heart and soul of their country. A wide variety of historic and cultural influences have left a mark on the town, from the Romans to the Venetians to the Ottomans, and the most impressive site to be found here is the Rozafa castle, dating back to the time of earliest settlement but continually reinforced and rebuilt by successive inhabitants. With underground stairways, tunnels and passages this was the last fortress in Albania to fall to the Ottomans, and a fascinating place to explore.

Peja

In the north west of the country, Kosovo’s second city enjoys a superb location on the edge of the Rugova Valley, flanked by fine mountain scenery. It is known for being the seat of the patriarch and archbishop of the Serb Orthodox church in medieval times, and is seen as the spiritual centre of the Serbian people – one of the many issues that has caused so much conflict between Serbia and the Albanian Kosovars. Peja was an important trading town with almost a thousand shops in the 14th century. The city suffered during the war with Serbia and much was destroyed, but it is not difficult to get a sense of what it was once like, and many old buildings remain or have been restored including the fascinating fortified houses from the Ottoman era as well as the beautiful Haxhi Beut mosque.7

Gjakova

The small town of Gjakova holds a wealth of historic monuments that belie its modest size. Although it suffered much in the war with Serbia, considerable effort has gone into restoring its old buildings, including the carshia – the traditional wooden market that provided the main focus of commercial activity in the town. There are also a number of tekkes – monasteries or spiritual centres for members of the Dervish order, and unique to this part of Europe, as well as old wooden houses and the stunning Hadum Mosque, with its ornate decorations.

Prizren

Prizren has around 70,000 inhabitants, and it is a true open air museum, one of the most beautiful towns of Kosovo. It is situated on the slopes of the Sharri Mountains and on the banks of the river Bistrica. Prizren was established as an important trading town, through which passed old roads towards the Adriatic coast and the interior of the Balkan peninsula. The area of the Prizren valley has been settled by Illyrians since ancient times. The city already existed in Roman times, and in the 2nd century it is mentioned with the name of Theranda and in the 5th century it is mentioned with the name of Petrizên by Procopius of Caesarea. Of all the cities in Kosovo, Prizren has best preserved the architectural heritage of the past.

Pristina

Like many Balkan cities, Pristina is a mish mash of cultural heritage with Ottoman mosques vying for space with Orthodox churches and stark Communist monuments. The city is ancient and there has been some form of settlement here for the last ten thousand years – in Roman times the nearby site of Ulpiana was one of the most important in the Balkan region, at the centre of regional trade routes. Pristina hasn’t always had an easy time though. In the front line between Christianity and Islam it was occupied by Austrian, Ottoman and Tatar forces, often with devastating consequences for the population, and in more recent years suffered some bombing during the NATO campaign against Serbia. Today it is a lively city with an optimistic outlook on the future – newly liberated from Serbian occupation there are now a huge number of bars and restaurants catering for a population finding their feet once more. As part of the former Ottoman Empire it is home to a number of excellent old Turkish buildings including old townhouses and mosques dating back to the time of Sultan Mehmet II in the 15th century, which sit rather uneasily with the grandiose monuments of Communist Yugoslavia. Yet this paradox makes it a continually surprising place to explore, with vibrant and friendly people eager to welcome visitors to this newest of European nations.

Skopje
Skopje is the capital and the largest city of the Republic of Macedonia. Located on a major north south Balkan route between Belgrade and Athens, Skopje has had a tumultuous past; with the Roman’s, Serbs and Ottoman Turks all occupying the city before it became part of Yugoslavia in 1918. A devastating earthquake then struck Skopje in 1963 when more then 1000 people died and a huge proportion of the city’s buildings were lost, as a result much of Skopje’s architecture dates from the 1960s and 1970s. Fortunately Skopje’s entire heritage was not lost, as much of the northern half of the city escaped untouched, leaving many architectural reminders of the city’s past as an important trading town of the Ottoman Empire. As a monument to the loss the earthquake caused the clock at the Old Train Station, is forever stopped at the moment the earthquake struck.

Most of central Skopje is a pedestrianised, with the 15th-century Turkish stone bridge over the Vardar River linking the old and new towns. North from the bridge you will find the Daud Pasha Baths which date back to 1466, once the largest Turkish baths in the Balkans they are now home to the City Art Gallery.

Skopje’s eclectic past has had an aesthetic impact on the city which is in evidence when visiting the Church of Sveti Spas, which is half buried due to the fact it was constructed in the 17th century (Ottoman Turks’ rule), when no church was allowed to be higher than a mosque. Skopje’s old Oriental bazaar district is the largest and most colourful of its kind left in Europe, with an abundance of small shops in the narrow streets and numerous cafes serving Turkish-style coffee it is a great place to explore.

Tetova

Home to much of Macedonia’s Albanian community, Tetova is medium sized town in the north west sitting in the shadow of some stunning mountain scenery. Like much of the Balkan region it is home to a diverse mix of architectural styles and cultural influences, with mosques and churches sitting side by side. Two of the most impressive are the cathedral of St Cyril and Methodius, with its collection of icons and the Sarena Dzamija, a beautifully painted mosque which reputedly used over thirty thousand eggs to decorate. 

Ohrid

Ohrid is one of Macedonia’s most pleasant towns, set on the shores of Lake Ohrid, one of the world’s oldest lakes. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Ohrid is packed with churches – some say there is one for every day of the year dotted around the shores of the lake – and dates back to well before Roman times. They of course left their mark here, and the town holds a very well preserved Roman amphitheatre. Looking over Ohrid lies the fortress of Tsar Samoil, a fortified 10^th century structure with great views over the lake, and the pretty streets with their whitewashed traditional houses and narrow alleyways are a great place to lose yourself for a couple of hours. Also worth a visit is the 11^th century cathedral of St Sofia, which holds some well preserved original frescoes.

Gjirokastra

The picturesque town of Gjirokastra enjoys an enviable position, perched on the side of a mountain above the Drino River. Like Berat it is also a ‘museum city’ and enjoys UNESCO World Heritage status as a result of its well preserved and traditional Albanian architecture, although the houses here are different to Berat and unique within the country. Dating back to the early 19th century, they are often ornately decorated both in and outside, with the ground floor being used for storage and living quarters in the storeys above. Although following a general style, each is different, and every turn leads to a new discovery – this is a particularly rewarding place to wander around and one of Albania’s most charming towns.

Butrint

The UNESCO listed site of Butrint dates back to the 7th century BC, later becoming a Roman colony, then falling under the sway of the Venetians and Ottomans. Virgil claimed that the Trojans settled Butrint, but no evidence of this has yet been found. Within a century of the Greeks arriving, Butrint had become a fortified trading city with its own acropolis, the ruins of which we can still visit. The rediscovered city is a microcosm of almost 3,000 years of Mediterranean history, and its 6th century BC fortification evokes the city’s military power and symbolizes the rich culture of the once thriving ancient city. It is a beautiful place, surrounded by water and trees and with an impressive collection of monuments including a palace, basilica, bathhouse, city gates and much more – perhaps Albania’s best archaeological site.

Apollonia

Ancient Apollonia was founded by Corinthians in 588BC, growing to become an important town of around 50,000 inhabitants. Once a key centre of the arts within the region its significance declined when the river Vjosa changed course, and it lost its port. Much of the site is unexcavated but there is still much to see, with an amphitheatre, temple and colonnaded street tucked away in the hillside. Also worth exploring is the excellent Byzantine monastery dating back to the 13th century, with many sculptures in the cloisters and some ancient frescoes within.

Berat

Nestled among attractive hills Berat is one of the prettiest towns in Albania with a history dating back more than four thousand years. Its citadel snakes walls around picturesque and typically Albanian traditional houses, their whitewashed walls tumbling down the hillsides, and contained within are a number of historic churches and mosques, as well as a museum with superb examples of religious iconography from the region.

The stunning architecture of Berat has led to it being designated a ‘museum city’, and helped it escape the ravages of the Communist era when many traditional buildings were lost elsewhere. More than most places in the country it offers a real sense of old Albania and the culture within – wandering around the small alleys and exploring the mosques and churches will be a real highlight of your time in Albania.

Durres

Founded in the 7th century BC by Greek immigrants, Durres is one of the oldest cities in Europe and is home to a rich cultural heritage incorporating Greek, Roman, Venetian and Byzantine influences among others. Briefly the capital of newly independent Albania in the early 20th century it is most noted for its impressive amphitheatre but also has some good examples of Ottoman architecture as well as the palace of King Zog, Albania’s first ruler.